The rise of social media in the 2010s sparked the modern era of plus-size fashion, bringing a transformation in the discourse around fashion and style. These new platforms helped to weaken the hold traditional gatekeepers like magazines had on style content and authority, and new voices emerged. Influencers like Chastity Garner, Nicolette Mason, and Gabi Gregg played a pivotal role in pioneering conversations about style in larger sizes. A New York Times piece that profiled these three women in 2012 was the spark for starting Dia & Co!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
These bold voices ushered in a new era of body positivity \u2013 one that challenged societal norms and unrealistic body standards while encouraging consumers to accept their own bodies as they are today. From Gabbi Fresh stepping out in a bikini and starting the #Fatkini movement in 2012 to the rise of theCURVYcon in 2015 \u2013 an event known to insiders as the \u201cSuperbowl\u201d of plus-size fashion \u2013 the leaders of the body positivity movement were incredibly effective in leveraging new media to galvanize millions of consumers around their cause.<\/p>\n\n\n
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<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\nBy the second half of the decade, the body positivity conversation had successfully moved from the sidelines of the internet into the mainstream. From Ashley Graham on the cover of Sports Illustrated <\/em>to Curve models walking the runways at New York Fashion Week, the general public was now aware of a growing movement challenging the stranglehold thinness had on fashion. More and more women opted into the conversation, and remarkably, deeply entrenched norms around body shaming went from being a mainstay of the zeitgeist to increasingly unpopular.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Led by the prominent voices of the body-positive movement, demand from consumers for more inclusive fashion options prompted a surge of brands into the plus-size category from 2014 to early 2020. Major retailers like Nike, Anthropologie, and Madewell extended their size ranges while featuring bodies of all shapes and sizes in brand campaigns. New brands popped up that were size-inclusive from the get-go, including Good American, Skims, and Parade. By 2019 theCurvycon, once on the fringes of New York Fashion Week, became more established in the general public as seen by the sponsorship of the event by mainstream retailers like Target, JCPenney, and Macy\u2019s. This acceptance and advocacy of the plus-size category marked a significant change in the fashion industry and a lasting shift to customer expectations \u2013 we all believed and hoped these changes would be permanent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Just as it felt we were making progress, recent examples have shown us have given us cause for concern. Many retailers have divested from or shuttered their plus lines entirely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Adding to the reversals, the onset of COVID-19 dramatically altered the entire retail landscape \u2013 shuttering stores, curbing consumer spending, and reshaping shopping behaviors as we knew them. Over 30% of plus-size specialty doors permanently closed in the last three quarters of 2020<\/a>, shifting most spend toward e-commerce as the in-store shopping experience nearly disappeared. Many retailers struggling in the post-pandemic economic landscape were the first to pull back on non-core initiatives \u2013 plus fashion being an unfortunate victim. While the pandemic can\u2019t be entirely to blame for many retailers\u2019 divestment from plus, it certainly added pressure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n LOFT had a high-profile launch in February of 2018 only to close their plus line completely three years later, citing \u201congoing business challenges\u201d as the reasons why it was too hard to maintain. Old Navy’s \u201cBODEQUALITY\u201d campaign launched with great fanfare in 2021 with the promise of a fully inclusive offering in all of its stores; less than a year later they retreated from that promise stating “We have not seen the expected demand for extended size products in our stores channel and as such, will be further realigning our in-store inventory later this year to better meet demand.” This subtle retreat has not gone unnoticed within the plus-size community, causing ongoing frustration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When the dust settled on the era of expansions the picture in the plus-size market was different than most expected. It didn\u2019t reflect the dream of mainstream brands offering plus styles across their full assortment with equal representation in media and a robust in-store experience. Instead, it was a fractured experience with scarce pockets of inventory from many brands \u2013 a little bit here, a little bit there \u2013 with little understanding of where to find it all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Whereas body positivity slogans dominated the airwaves and curve models walked the runways at increasing rates in the late 2010s, by the end of 2023 we were observing a complete boomerang illustrated by the resurgence of terms like “heroin chic” and the popularity of GLP-1s (like Ozempic or Wegovy) for weight loss among Hollywood, influencers and consumers. Body ideals have been changing rapidly with extreme thinness coming back into vogue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This cultural shift is reverberating loudly in the fashion world, marked by a notable reduction in plus-size styles and models on fashion week runways throughout 2023. Vogue Business\u2019 analysis of 9,137 looks across 219 shows revealed that only 17 brands featured at least one plus-size (defined as size 14 or above) look during fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Even brands that expanded their offerings to include plus-size clothing, such as Gucci (A\/W23) and Chanel (A\/W23), omitted plus-size models on the runway\u2014a stark contrast to the heralded diversity of the Spring 2019 runway season, deemed by MIC as “the most diverse ever.”<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ensuring retail serves the plus customer exceptionally well in an environment that includes, inspires, and empowers her is more critical now than ever. In the path forward, let\u2019s fully embrace the extraordinary progress achieved over the last decade. From our extensive shop featuring hundreds of brands catering to sizes 10-32 to witnessing body diversity grace high-end runways, the fashion landscape has undergone an irreversible transformation. However, we acknowledge that sustaining progress in the future of inclusive fashion rests in our collective hands, both as brands and consumers. We hope that brands continue to iterate, genuinely listening to customers, and adapting to their needs. As for consumers, we urge you to demand a higher standard, pushing all of us to consistently raise the bar while staying open-minded as we work to meet your requests. At Dia & Co, we will continue championing size 10-32 customers in every aspect of our work, collaborating with brands that share this unwavering commitment. Plus is a team sport, and the Future of Inclusive Fashion is only bright if we all work together. <\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/span>, <\/span><\/p>\n Shop Now<\/a><\/p>\n <\/div>\n\n <\/div>\n\n <\/div>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n![\"Ashley](\"https:\/\/d3mnyo7e05c2kb.cloudfront.net\/blog-content\/uploads\/2024\/01\/State-of-Inclusive-Fashion-Ashley-Graham-510x700.jpg\")
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Reversing Progress and the Impact of the Pandemic\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Is Plus Disappearing? The Onset of GLP-1s and Changing Body Ideals<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Conclusion<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Shop the Story<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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