Set tailor and designer Marcus Hicks knows fashion. After producing his own line and working for inclusive retailers, he’s become an expert in achieving the best fit for both men and women of all sizes.
In between fittings at a recent photo shoot, we pulled Marcus aside to get his tips on finding clothes that fit perfectly. Here’s what he had to say.
1. Never assume it’ll fit straight off the rack.
I know people get discouraged sometimes when they try things on and the fit is weird. I think there’s a little self-blame. But the truth of the matter is that everything off-the-rack is cookie cutter. Nothing’s custom-made for you. So having things slightly tailored is kind of the norm.
So if you want a really good fit, you might have to get a little pinch in the piece here and there—unless you’re buying a T-shirt. This is especially true with fitted garments, like pants. Everyone’s legs are different lengths.
Most things can be done at home. If you have a button-up shirt that’s too roomy, just putting two darts down the back makes a huge difference. That’s just getting in the back, pinching two pieces, marking it, and then sewing off that part. It’s incredibly easy—anyone can do it.
2. Move around in the pieces before you buy them.
People often just look at the front and the back of what they’re trying on, but they don’t walk around. It’s like shoes. When you buy shoes, you don’t just say, “Oh, they fit.” You walk around a little bit to see if you can move. Sometimes when you walk around in an outfit, you may discover that the crotch might sag, or that there’s something else that you might not really want. If you’re at home, put the piece on and walk around in it. Really see if you can live in it.
3. Make sure the fit is right everywhere.
With pants, it’s really important to make sure your butt fits and that the rise is the right length for you—unless the dropped-crotch look is what you’re going for. Sometimes you see jeans that just kind of hang, and that doesn’t always look great.
If the waist fits well, that helps in the crotch area. When I try on pants, I always look at my crotch and my butt. You might think, “Oh, the waist fits. Great. They’re my size.” But then other parts don’t really work. Even if the piece is in your size, you need to try it on and make sure it fits every part of you.
4. Size is just a number.
With wovens, make sure you have a decent fit up top. Make sure there’s enough room for your breasts. If something is a little big in certain parts, you can tighten the darts or bring in the waist—just make sure you have plenty of room. It’s better to have a little extra room with shirts, wovens, and then just go from there. People often want to buy their size, but in some cases, I would go bigger.
Looking to find your perfect fit? Order a Dia Style Box today and get 5 handpicked pieces delivered to your doorstep for easy at-home try-on.
