Coterie, a global trade show, is the place to see where fashion is going in the future. Dia & Co’s buyer, Jackie Karwacki headed out to Javits Center in our hometown of NYC to see what’s trending (the contemporary maxi dress and the chiffon maxi dress with sleeves are two big ones) and what’s over for Spring 2022. Everything from emerging designers to contemporary brands, as well as footwear and accessory buyers come together to see what’s going to be major next season. Consider this your sneak peek:
"We had a lot of linen this summer and it’s not going away."
Sara Graham: Why is Coterie the place to go to scope out what’s trending?
Jackie Karwacki: I went to 1. to find any new plus-size brands to pick up for Dia. I had some appointments with vendors we already work with. And 2. it’s a great place to see what the market is going to look like in spring. Whatever you see is what’s going to be on everyone’s sales floor. And it’s really easy to see trends. Like this is the color fabric, silhouettes…I go to look for inspiration from our private label brands.
SG: What are the biggest trends you are most excited about?
JK: Yea, the first one that stood out to me is a lot of linen and a lot of texture. We had a lot of linen this summer and it’s not going away. So a lot of resort pieces, this very vacation vibe which I think we kind of had this summer, like a dress moment. Like the Hill House nap dress and Zimmerman. Zimmerman is everywhere—everyone wants a Zimmerman dress and that’s only picking up more momentum. So lots of dresses. Lots of sparkle and metallics woven in for daytime.
JK: There was a lot of gauzy knit. It’s everywhere, definitely like the new French Terry. There were no sweatshirts. There was [only] one booth of sweatshirts.
SG: Are sweatshirts over? I feel like the comfiest thing I have right now is a floral maxi dresswith sleeves—almost as comfy as a sweatshirt, because I can’t bear to wear them anymore.
JK: It’s done. It makes sense, we all have so many [sweatshirts] in our closet.
SG: Right. It’s time for relaxed glamour. But we still want ease. Still not wanting to be constructed or uncomfortable.
JK: I feel like we all thought we would swing to the roaring ‘20s, super over the top, but its not going that way at all. It’s definitely changing texture and fabrication. Which I think makes sense, we all want to be more comfortable, you don’t want to give that up but you want to look more put together and I think what’s refreshing. It’s all stuff you can wear all day long, wear it to dinner and still look put together.
SG: What did you see in plus?
JK: Not a ton, which is what makes our private labels so important.
SG: So is the intention to lead into trend with our private labels? Tell me about the process.
JK: Today we had a meeting and this textured knit fabrication was everywhere—it almost felt embroidered and I feel like that’s the biggest takeaway. Like it’s all about fabrication next year and it’s still really easy silhouettes. We were coming out of this place of cold shoulders, then the bow blouse. So step one is creating a roadmap of all the styles we want and looking at the market and trends, [and then we] slot in what we want. For dresses, it’s whoever can send us the best fabrications and silhouettes and we alter them for our customers.
SG: So we’re really codesigning with our vendors. So what else are you excited about that’s to come?
JK: We’re coming into this place of all occasions all the time and I think that’s how modern women want to dress.